Restaurant, in Roanne

Housed in an old hotel dating back to the 1920s, the establishment has never stopped reinventing itself in order to be ahead of its time. All the Troisgros souls are represented here. Inspired by their many travels, it was one of the first of its kind to offer an open kitchen, like a stage on which dishes are prepared on the spot. Pierre Boucaud, formerly chef de rang at the old Maison Troisgros, is the manager. Loyal and discreet, he ensures the fluidity and a warm welcome, characteristic of this place where many clients know each other. As for chef Grégoire Antoine, he heads up a very young brigade, whose good spirit and vitality radiate throughout the restaurant.

Le Central’s chef has free access to Troisgros’ secret gourmet archives. On Friday, market day, he informs César Troisgros of his ideas. Together, they fine-tune his proposals down to the smallest detail, agree on the final touch, then re-evaluate the next day. Le Central has a wide range of products that so many others don’t have, and an unrivalled skill set and eye for detail. Every week, one of the items on the menu varies – starters/desserts, main courses, then all three – until the entire menu is renewed in three-week cycles. However, there are a handful of absolute essentials, such as the chocolate dariole, which is so popular that it’s impossible to remove from the menu. The limited character of supplies and harvests stimulate creativity, so there’s no monotony. Central’s cuisine is straight to the point, clear and efficient, just like the many executives who frequently visit this address. And if ever time is short, you’re invited to relax and enjoy the generous amuse-bouche or the traditional broth, served hot or cold, depending on the season, which sets the scene for the meal to come.

Dès l’entrée, Le Central ouvre ses portes sur un alléchant cabinet de curiosités. Initiée par Marie-Pierre Troisgros, cette épicerie fine est à la fois le placard et le ventre de la maison. Ses rayons content les délices du voyage comme ceux du voisinage. Ils regorgent de courts-bouillons, de sauces tomate, de soupes de poissons tous d’exception, et d’autres astuces pour régaler son monde en un temps trois mouvements. On y retrouve l’Italie avec le riz rouge cultivé dans le Piémont… ; l’Espagne et son vinaigre, des crakers et conserves en veux-tu en voilà. Le Central est une réserve de cadeaux, un peu de Troisgros à déguster séance tenante, à offrir ou emporter chez soi !